Back in Poland

[kaima]

This is Kai, a regular here, back in Poland. I flew in from Frankfurt Germany to Krakow this morning, dawdled around the airport since I was too early to check into my hotel and it gave me a chance to get oriented, pull out zloties from the last trip and buy a bottle of water, catch up on some wifi and use Google Maps for direction to get to the hotel by bus instead of a boring cab. There is the challenge to working out public transportation and using the slower ride as a Tour through areas I would miss looking at asphalt in a rental car or taking a cab. In this case mistakes helped in missing the now- completed train link, I got to see the train pulling out. A genuinely friendly cabby offered a lift, but I turned it down for the longer.bus ride with bus change that I couldn't have managed without using Google maps "directions".

Not on their payroll, I will try to avoid mentioning them again, but they are handy. For them or other software needing wifi, do the work as I did using airport wifi and keep theprogram open to check as you go. I also use Gaia GPS for tracking where I am going or was.

This is written on my US phone acting as my computer. My EU phone is a pay as you go cheapie. Word on those is that you have to keep the account a five at.least once every 12 months or they kill the chip. This is supposed to binder terrorists from using unregistered phones ( which they did cancel some years ago and it caused me until trouble when I tried to call the friends to pick me up. The phone didn't work and the pickup area at Frankfurt was closed for repairs.

So typing is tough and reports will be limited.

[kaima]

My stay inKrakow became a little less pleasure and includes a bit of work now that a grand niece booked to join me my last ten days in Europe. Now I have many reservations to make and contacts to notify. This should be a first contact for her with the European cousins. Happily it is at her initiative.

One of the first obligations on arrival is figuring out how to depart. I felt that most keenly in my visits to East Berlin during the.Wende. For a while the Ladies charged a DM 5 'visa fee' and channeled you from S bahn to kassa to collect. I got so used to that that when I visited first after they dropped that control, I was reluctant to step off the train until I knew my exit route, even though I had "Occupying Forces" protections.

But this is about Poland. I just bought my bus ticket from Krakow to Sanok for this Saturday, a quick and painless proceedure. Information had a very short line and they spoke excellent English, and I.had written out my goal and approximat time, and the day. Then it was direct to the kassa and an equally friendly English speaker, who also recognized that I qualify for a senior discount. With all of these young students and people in Krakow and the fine courtesies extended, I am starting to feel like a grandfather, as I did by hotel check in.

Some of my Hard luck Tourist still comes through as when I got to the Archaeology museum right before opening time, only to eventually find out they were not late opening, but June 20 was listed as a special closed day. So off I wandered and encountered an extremely long religious parade with so many religious and various orders and costumes that I was amazed. It must be some high church holiday. Also along the way earlier I encountered a newly married couple who really caught my eye. Quite attractive but not overly so or distractingly so, but notable, also in their ordinaryness celebrating a very special event. I wanted to look again,but it would have been noticable.and out of order. If you can judge a book by it's cover, this will be a very happy couple.

[kaima]

Dealing with all of the cultures, languages, and history over here does not make life simpler. I am working on reservations around Kosice, Slovakia, which used to be called Kassa when Slovakia was part of Hungary. I occasionally have to remind myself I am in Krakow, not Kosice.

An hour ago I was walking out of the beautiful new train station in Krakow and looked sideways. What do I see? "Kasa". From an instant state of confusion I had to remind myself again, I am in Krakow not Kosice.

It also does not help your state of mind when you ask the coffee shop for the pass code to the free wifi and the answer, deep inside the railroad terminal, is "on the tree on the table". Mansplaining that, I did not note the potted tree on the table with a tag on it!

[kaima]

I should be packing, I am off to an early start tomorrow to catch the 7:45 am bus to Sanok. It will take four hours. I did imagine one or two stops in between and getting there Sunday, but schedules are such that this is most efficient.

Visited the Archaeology Museum today and again walked through their astounding display of 37,000 years of occupation ups and downs and changes in life technology over that person. It is amazing how much we in the west do not know about the ancient Central Europe. They also have a special display on the massive bronze age and iron age findings during the construction of the " autostrada" or freeway between Krakow and Raenow in the'90's. As an engineer who loves archaeology it is gratifying to see the two work so well together. Now it is off to pack for the early start.

I am also quite busy making reservations for when my niece joins.me.in a.few.weeks. People who put together itineraries sure earn their money! Then again I spent several hours starting to contact cousins that we are coming.

[kaima]

Sitting in the main square or Rynek of Sanok debating if I will pass out from thirst or the waitress will come first. Caught the 7:45 am small bus from Krakow today andwith several stops along the way made it in by 12:00. It was a kid k to drive over the same grounds investigated and reported in the archaeological museum yesterday. Hard to believe the history is often so near the surface and so invisible.

Headed out for a familiarization and water supply - I want more. Than the hotel supplies. Also stopped at an apteke, if my Polish spelling is right, to pick up some soothing medicine for an on coming sore throat. With all the cougher and smokers here it is hard to guess the source, but it to eat me suspect to disparage.

The bus system seems good if you have luck in figuring it out - I had friendly people - it.cost Zlt 30 for the ticket with reduced care. Had a fair number of locals oon and of, and area of us long term riders. The town is much bigger than I expected and the "miesto center" drop seems in the middle of an industrial road.. we bypassed the main terminal and seemed to come.in.almost in back of of.the.local workers pointed.me in.the right direction.and.the.rest was easy. I hadn't gone 100 meters when a Polish woman asked me for directions. That happens.all over.

So the plan is for a long day at the Skansen tomorrow.

I found a shopping center near the hotel and a money exchange.booth offered 3.70 or 3.80 exchange, the Bank O mat next to it offered 3.72 and insists on a near Zlt 17 fee for the exchange. I didn't want the Zlt 1000 minimum they offered, so it was easy to refuse.

Passing by a real bank on the street I took up the offer they made for Zlt 500 withdrawal from.mu US bank. It seems you get the industrial rate from some banks with the right affiliation.

You must notice this is much more about 'how to' and everyday things than it is about sights. I figure the professional guide books can do better than I can, so this covers what they don't.

[kaima]

Coming to Sanok is like stepping away from the wonderful 'commercial' Poland of beautiful Krakow where navigation is easy with so much in English and so many people speaking English. The bus ride was a floor period of adjustment. I can't say I heard a single word of English or German from passengers or drivers. It is not much better since getting off the bus, but here people work in an important word or two to get the message across. So I use the bit of Slovak I can muster, but that is in exercis d and coming slowly, and what I do get out is not part of the vocabulary shared with Poles.

Mindful that it was Saturday afternoon as I walked to the hotel, I stopped at the oirst Apteke - pharmacy I ran a Ross and ' with hand and feet' got across itchy throat and upper respiratory infection. In exchange I got a packet of powder in what looked like tea bags. 'Vicks Anti-Grip Complex' and it seems to help nicely. Hopefully I may have it pass and avoid a cold. For backup I bought a 100ml bottle of vodka. With a light dose of anti- hystamines to minimize drippy nose,. I keep the vodka handy as a gargle if the throat starts to it h. That presumably seems t, stop the infection from getting to the lungs. I first tried this in a remote cabin in Alaska where you didn't dare to outside at night without a loaded rifle, as the place was loaded with bears. So I could gargle or swish the vodka as mouthwash and swallow it, as there was no place to spit. It works well in travels as well.

I join a group in two days, so want to be in the best of health.

[Jaga]

Kai, Corpus Christi is celebrated in Poland on Thursday in June much more than anywhere else around the world except the bastions of catholicism like Spain and Italy. It was always a free day, communists wanted people to forget about it., They played best movies at the time. But Polish folk catholics organized long parades, decorated windows etc.
It used to be one of these days, you show the opposition to communistic and atheistic government.

Jun 20, 2019 3:23:41 GMT -7 kaima said:

Some of my Hard luck Tourist still comes through as when I got to the Archaeology museum right before opening time, only to eventually find out they were not late opening, but June 20 was listed as a special closed day. So off I wandered and encountered an extremely long religious parade with so many religious and various orders and costumes that I was amazed. It must be some high church holiday. Also along the way earlier I encountered a newly married couple who really caught my eye. Quite attractive but not overly so or distractingly so, but notable, also in their ordinaryness celebrating a very special event. I wanted to look again,but it would have been noticable.and out of order. If you can judge a book by it's cover, this will be a very happy couple.

[Jaga]

You are right, Sanok is a real Poland, maybe even Eastern Poland. Don't expect to speak English there. I hope you had a good time and I hope you would stay healthy.

Jun 22, 2019 18:43:29 GMT -7 kaima said:

Coming to Sanok is like stepping away from the wonderful 'commercial' Poland of beautiful Krakow where navigation is easy with so much in English and so many people speaking English. The bus ride was a floor period of adjustment. I can't say I heard a single word of English or German from passengers or drivers. It is not much better since getting off the bus, but here people work in an important word or two to get the message across. So I use the bit of Slovak I can muster, but that is in exercis d and coming slowly, and what I do get out is not part of the vocabulary shared with Poles.

I join a group in two days, so want to be in the best of health.

[kaima]

Poland stinks from cigarettes, all over!

Vaping is also big. Too bad cancer can't take the stinkers a lot quicker.

[kaima]

I was waiting for a group of Americans to arrive on a much delayed flight and was walking around the residential neighborhood in Sanok near the hotel they were coming to, admiring the gardens. In contrast to comments by an Alaskan cousin, where she says Alaskan yards are often unkempt and, in the extreme, look like junkyards, the Polish yards were very nicely landscaped, in this neighborhood with what we often call ""postage stamp yards". With the fine choice of shrubery , walkways and flowers and trees of many sorts, there is almost a Japanese garden type of effect.where the yard is an object of beauty in its own right

So far I have been asked for directions two or three times, helped push one car, and spoken to many times in Polish. One instance was as I was admiring the gardens and a local man spoke to me. We didn't share a language, it I conveyed my enjoyment of the beauty, and he smiled happily and shook my hand.

[Jaga]

Kai, I am glad you look like a local person rather than the tourist, so people talk to you as you are a resident of their town, especially in Sanok.
Yeah, Poles try to upkeep their gardens, although the grass is not kept that mononotonusly but cleanly cut. At least our weather allows plants to grow without excessive watering like in Idaho or Texas.

Referring to smoking in Poland. I think it is a bit better than it used to be, but it is not perfect yet. People smoke, my wonderful mother passed away too early due to smoking, but she started when it was still treated as a normal habit.

[kaima]

So it is June 30 and I am now in Presov Slovakia with the group I am travelling with. We are finished with the Pola d part of our trip, a d heading from the somewhat cooler mountains of the last few days deeper into the heat wave striking Europe.

We spent several days centered in the comfortable spa town of Krynica branching out to look over Lemko features in the area, particularly the wooden churches in the countryside. Some are quite recently renovated and are as beautiful as ever. One was under scaffolding during it's renovation. The tour guide was surprised at me asking if the paints used in restoration are formulated according to centuries old mixes. I had it confirmed.by the local priest. It seems no one had ever asked that question before. I did learn some of the ways to tell Byzantine from Orthodox, and the Orthodox of the Cyril and Methodius tradition from the Eastern (Ukrainian) tradition. C&M brought chritianity to CzechoSlovak and Polish areas around 100 years before Vlaimir (?) brought Christianity to the Eastern Slavs. So the Eastern churches arrived after the C&M churches.
In all it shows the migrations of the people and timing of conversion, resulting in the different traditions. Sometimes it is uncomfortable irritating hearing one claim some egotistical superiority over the other.

We also celebrated a Lemko / Rusyn Vatra or bonfire cele ration, this one appropriately near St. John's day / summer solstice.

We left Poland and crossed into Slovakia to the Rusyn / Lemko village of Jarabina to be entertained with traditional songs, and of course a tour of one of the local churches. I took the opportunity to break away and visit a friend and.catch.up on the past year.

We then had a traditional shepherds lunch at U Franku outside of Stara Lubovna. It enjoys a top local reputation and lived up to it with excellent food.

So goodbye,Poland, it was a pleasure to be with you again! I will return

[Jaga]

Kai,

I am glad you had a good time in Poland and you were able to share some info, from Sanok on the way.
I am not completely surprised that Orthodox tradition of paint mixes was different from Roman catholics.

it sounds that your Vatra bonfire celebration was fun. Good that you were able to get a break from the heat,

keep updating us from Stara Lubovna and other parts of Slovakia

[kaima]

After completing the trip to Poland I was joined by a niece who wanted to discover our parts of Central Europe. So we visited family in Slovakia, then beautiful Budapest for several days, had a few days near Frankfurt to visit good and dear friends (goddaughter and family) and to walk and discover Frankfurt proper.

All this left a very good impression and many places to go back to and continue explorations, if and when the opportunity comes. For me, of course, that is likely next year.

We completed the travels by taking the direct Frankfurt- Anchorage flight on Condor, which is great for cutting time in travel. Going through the lower 48 states with connections takes about twice as long. The negative side is that everything is Sardine Class today, barely to be tolerated. The food was of minimal quality and adequate to keep soul and body together, but not to boost the spirit and add to the joy of the journey.

So bah, humbug to Condor and other airlines with their Sardine sized seating and lack of legroom!

Kai